Sunday, November 8, 2009

The Roopkund Rendezvous - Trek from Bedni Bugyal to Bhaguabhasa - A Date with Snow Capped Peaks!


Hello darkness my old friend, I’ve come to talk with you again.
Because a vision softly creeping, left its seeds while I was sleeping.
And the vision that was planted in my brain still remains,
Within the Sound of Silence!


With Kali Dak rising just in front of me, I walked towards it only to reach the end of the meadow and a slope. It was now that I screamed my lungs out. In fact I was hysterical as I shouted out to the guys.
- It is at Ghora Lautani that you first hear the sound of silence. After a night above the Didna village and another night at Bedni along with many other hikers, Ghora Lautani offers one, the much awaited feeling of isolation from civilization!

Day 3 – Bedni Bugyal to Ghora Lautani
Day 4 – Ghora Lautani to Bhaguabhasa

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KALIDAK AND OUR CAMPSITE AT GHORA LAUTANI

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THE HERD GRAZING AT GHORA LAUTANI

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HEADED TOWARDS BHAGUABHASA WITH TRISHUL AND CHANYAKOT IN THE BACKGROUND

After spending a cold night on the grasslands of Bedni, we set out in the morning towards
Ghora Lautani, which is at an altitude of almost 13000ft. As a precautionary measure, we were camping here for one night before heading out to Bhaguabhasa to avoid Acute Mountain Sickness. Yes, we were in the radar of acquiring AMS by now.

As usual, the departing time was 8.30 AM and somehow I was late by 5 minutes again. But Rajesh was briefing the team about the mythological stories of Bedni kund and Roopkund too, which gave me time to catch up with them soon. After hearing the stories, we set out towards the higher ridge right in front of us.

All through the previous day, we could see our destination. It was high above on the mountains right opposite to us and right in between us and the mighty snowcapped peaks of Trishul and KaliDak. Nanda Ghunti was to our left and Gangotri range behind us (While we were facing east). From Bedni, you could either retrace your steps to the top from where you descended yesterday and go left along the trail towards Ghora Lautani or you could go up passing by Bedni Kund and reach the trail above through a tougher shortcut. We chose the shortcut and it was a tough until we reached the trail. After that, it was a walk along a nominal gradient.

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DRIFITNG CLOUDS AND HIDDEN MOUNTAINS

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THE ROCKY TERRAIN OF GHORA LAUTANI

The green bugyals were gone giving way to a rocky landscape with a grassy brown spread. Clouds started drifting in from every direction and created magnificent scenery whilst it chose to show us some small glimpses of splendor around. We reached a point where we’d cross over the ridge from one side to the other at 10.30. This place is called Ghora Lautani and it has an interesting theory as to why it was named so. Seems during the British times, the horses couldn’t go further ahead from here due to lack of food i.e fodder. And hence the name Ghora – horse, Lautani – returned. (in Hindi)

 From here, the trail goes down the mountain along a nominal slope and the last traces of green were all gone. Now it is all a golden hue and then there is the brown of the rock faces of the mountain – bottom line, all brown! Since we had lot of time at our disposal and there was no hurry to reach campsite early, we slowed down enjoying the views. We posed and took shots at a cavern sort of thing adorned with a variety of flowers. Huge mountains surrounded every side and somewhere the echo of a waterfall was being heard. And then finally we spotted small dots which were our tents at the campsite on one of the meadows on the mountain slope. We reached the campsite Pathar Nauchuni by 12.00 and today we got closer to the mighty peaks than yesterday. Now they were rising right above us. And it goes without saying that it was splendid.

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RED FLOWER ON THE WAY TO GHORA LAUTANI

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MORE FLOWERS ENROUTE

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AND MORE.....

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ANY MANY MORE ON THE WAY

In these areas, reaching your campsite before noon is advisable as the weather tends to worsen after that. As expected it rained and it was freaking cold. We were all huddled up in our tents and then maggi was served in the rain. Now we huddled in the kitchen tent and had our lunch. It was today that we realized we should share plates so that someone could forgo the pain of washing those plates with the freezing water. Rain showed some respite by 1.30 and I decided to take a stroll around the place. With Kali Dak rising just in front of me, I walked towards it only to reach the end of the meadow and a slope. It was now that I screamed my lungs out. Infact I was hysterical as I shouted out to the guys. Nothing to worry, I just spotted one of the most awesomest rainbows ever! That too below us, in the valley – while it was still drizzling, Maiktoli and Mrighthuni peaks made their appearance and as the sound of the invisible waterfalls heightened ringing in our ears, we saw the most exquisite rainbow flashing its flamboyant colors below us! You know when they say, some memories are etched in your mind forever – this was definitely one such memory! I could show you the picture of the rainbow but that would do no justice to what we saw and what we felt standing there at the foothills reveling in the awe of the wonder called nature. Some things are best left to my memory and your imagination.

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THAT'S THE AWESTRUCK US LOOKING DOWN TO THE RAINBOW Courtesy - Deepak

After this close encounter of the soul-stirring kind, we huddled back in our tents as the rain showed no respite. With a multitude of topics and as the peaks played hide and seek with us, time passed and soon it was dinner time. Tomorrow is a tough climb to Kalu Vinayak Pass at 14550 ft and with much anticipation we call it a night!

The next day we woke up after going through a 10 °C cold night. It was 6.45 AM and it was bright sunny day. I was soaking up in the sun sitting in front of the tent and then finally we started by 7.30 AM. The climb to Kalu Vinayak is a tiring one. Steep climb and no respite until you reach the pass. And add to it the fact that the air is getting thinner with each step you take. Today I was a bit late than usual. Struggling and dragging myself, I reached Kalu Vinayak at 9.15 AM.

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UP THE WAY TO KALU VINAYAK

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NANDA GHUNTI AS SEEN FROM KALU VINAYAK

We were extremely lucky as it was a clear sunny day and we were all surrounded by majestic peaks on all sides. Nanda Ghunti, Kali Dak, Trishul, Chanyakot, Chaukhamba – you name it, you’ve got it all from here. We offered our prayers to Kalu Vinayak and then got down to the task of taking “been there, done that” pictures. After all we were 14550ft above mean sea level! From here we got a first glimpse of our final destination, far away on the mountain in front of us, in the cradle of the majestic peaks was a small depression in which the Roopkund Lake lies. A snowy path was leading to it. At 10.00AM Rajesh announced that since it was such a beautiful day with wonderful weather, we would be attempting Roopkund today itself. In a fit of frenzy we started towards Bhaguabhasa and Pavan, Sujeet, I and a couple of others reached the campsite in a record time of 20 minutes. Not once did I look up. My gaze was constantly fixed on the rocky trail that led us down to Bhaguabhasa. After we reached the campsite, we noticed that clouds were drifting from behind us and we would not be going to Roopkund today after all. But one good thing was we the girls got a pink tent today.

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HAILSTORM AT OUR CAMPSITE IN BHAGUABHASA

Meanwhile we waited out in the cold waiting for the rest of our team to arrive and also the previous batch who had left for Roopkund today morning, so that once they come and empty the tents, we could occupy them. The previous batch returned and we had a small chat. Farewells and congratulations on finishing the trek and they left and we occupied the tents.

Bhaguabhasa is a really cold place with neither flat nor soft surface for camping. It is all very rocky and we were told before hand that tonight is going to be a force to reckon with. And it proved to be very true. Inside our tents it was so cold; Smitha, Poonam and I huddled in the center of the tent to deal with the cold. With no sleeping bags to our aid, it was our only chance at getting some heat. Sometime later, Deepak and Pavan joined us and now that we were five, the air got a bit warmer. And now something interesting happened! It was raining, only it was hailstorms. It formed a pretty picture as the campsite was covered in a layer of white. Cold as it may be, we went out and played with the snow and took some more shots of yet another wonderful experience.

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THE HAIL STORM EFFECT?

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THE AFTERNOON AFTER HAIL STORMS

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DESTINATION ROOPKUND!!

Let’s call it a day and tomorrow I shall take you to the Roopkund Lake and Junargali heights of 16500ft!

Fact File –


Time taken  - Bedni Bugyal to Ghora Lautani – 3 ½ hours at a very leisurely pace
                  - Ghora Lautani to Kalu Vinayak – 2 hours
                  - Kalu Vinayak to Bhaguabhasa – 30 minutes to 1 hour (20mins for some of us)
Altitudes – Bedni Bugyal (11800 ft) – Ghora Lautani (13000ft) – Kalu Vinayak (14550ft) - Bhaguabhasa(14350ft)
Water Sources – One near Ghora Lautani. None until Bhaguabhasa again.
Difficulty – Bedni to Ghora Lautani – easy
              - Ghora Lautani to Kalu Vinayak – Difficult
             -  Kalu Vinayak to Bhaguabasa – easy
Any snow capped peaks ? – Trishul, Kali Dak, Chaukhamba, Chanyakot, Nanda Ghunti

Sunday, November 1, 2009

The Roopkund Rendezvous - Trek from Didna to Bedni via Ali Bugyal - A walk to remember!

Lohajung to Didna<<>>Bedni Bugyal to Bhaguabhasa through Ghora Lautani

Statutory Warning – Prolonged exposure to the bugyals (high altitude grasslands) can lead to awe-inspired delirium. Traveler discretion is advised.Oh, if I forgot to mention, Ali Bugyal is known to be Asia’s most beautiful grasslands

on the wy to bedni bugyal
SEE WHAT I MEAN? - LONE HIKER TOWARDS BEDNI BUGYAL


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BEDNI KUND - AN EVENING TO REMEMBER


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TRISHUL RISING TO YOUR LEFT AND KALIDAK TO YOUR RIGHT

Day 3 – Didna to Bedni Bugyal – Distance around 12kms.

Yesterday we woke up at an altitude of 8600ft and today is no different. Our first night in the tents pitched in the Himalayas was very comfortable. We had a quick breakfast and I was very eager to start the trek considering today’s one of the most beautiful trails that we would be treading upon. 7.30 AM we were supposed to start and I was ready but I had the shock of my life when I came out of the tent only to find the campsite empty save the porters who were packing up the tents already! To my chagrin, rest of the team had left without informing me and Poonam who was still oblivious, packing her backpack. One of the guides was waiting for us at the far end of the campsite. It is 7.45 AM and we start the trek now. And now it seemed to me the rest of gang was way ahead and it would be impossible for me to catch up with them. Besides, the trail that goes up from Didna campsite passes through moss-laden forests and brown trails carpeted with fallen leaves – bottom line is it was scary to be walking alone. Poonam and our guide Mahendra ji were coming slowly and I was in a big dilemma that should I try to catch up with the guys ahead or should I stay back and come along with these guys. Now the catch was what if I was stuck somewhere in the middle of these two with no one around! Mahendra ji assured me it was a straight trail and all the trails lead to the same path and asked me to go ahead. The fact that I was furious at the abandonment added to my pace and within minutes I met Nitin ji and the Bengali couple. They told me the rest of the gang was nearby. A few more meters and I could hear them. And few more sprints, I could see them. At first I was glad that I reached my gang finally and then I was angry. So I bashed them a little and went up ahead while they were trying to find paracetmol for Raghu who was feeling a bit dizzy.

I caught up with Deepak, Smitha and Pavan while the Kailash-Manasarovar team was leading ahead. Now that all my anger was channeled out and with my head cleared, for the first time I was taking in the beauty of the forest around me. There could not have been a better time to start the trek as the sunlight filtered through the branches - the play of light and shadows was delightful beyond any imagination.

Since I have been blabbering so much about me which is of no use to the eager trekker, let me tell you some details of the trail. The initial part of the trail is a bit steep and within 30 minutes, the trail goes through the forest lands where the gradient is very gradual. The walk is effortless until you reach Tol Pani, letting you soak in the beauty. Tol Pani is an idyllic village of few houses which is inhabited only during the trekking seasons for the same reason that other times it gets very cold. This would be your last water source until Bedni Bugyal for the next 5 hours.

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THE IDYLLIC VILLAGE - TOL PANI

We reached Top Pani at 8.45 AM, filled our bottles and took some “been there, done that” snaps. But it was lovely sight – a few women going about their daily chores oblivious to the curious bystanders and children playing in the sunlit fields. After this, the trail goes up in a steep incline to reach Tol Top. This was the first time we could feel the thinness of air – I don’t know if it was for real or psychological, but the steep climb through the oak forest was exhausting. After this, we would be above Tree line. We reached Tol Top by 9.30 and Narayan ji was not allowing us to go ahead and so we sat waiting for all to arrive. We got a glimpse of Chaukhamba peak as we stood there.

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WAITING AT TOL TOP

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MISTY MOSS LADEN FORESTS - ON THE WAY TO ALI

The trail from here passes over the mountain top through the forest for a while until you can see a clearing and Viola! You are in the bugyals ala grasslands. Pavan, Ambareesh, Kunal, Raghavendra, Jagadish and I were one of the lucky few who got there first to see the beautiful vistas spread in front of us. We could see the villages, and the trails and we could get a sense of scale as to how high we were right now! It lasted only for a while before the clouds took over the show.

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LAST OF THE TREES FOR THE NEXT FEW DAYS


man and the mountain
AS HE WALKS, NANDA GHUNTI RISES!


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NANDA GHUNTI SHROUDED IN CLOUDS - ALI BUGYAL

Now the trees were behind us and all we could see was green meadows dotted with various flowers. The walk from here eases down and while a few started running towards Ali Bugyal for the lure of Aloo Parathas, Kunal, Smitha, Deepak and I were taking it slow enjoying the beauty and trying to capture some moments considering the shutterbug that I was! A few more trees here and there, this would be the last you see any of them at your altitude and we left them behind..all of them. Now it’s only you and the grasslands. The climb is gradual just before Ali Bugyal at which a short ascent and you reach Ali. A small pond welcomes you and if you are lucky maybe an awesome reflection of Nanda Ghunti too!

Somehow today everyone was feeling extra hungry! Maybe the breakfast was not enough or we stressed ourselves too much but hungry we were. So when it was announced that we would be getting Aloo Parathas at Ali Bugyal, it was quite some motivation to reach there fast and everyone had dreamed of Aloo Parathas – mind the extra s in “Parathas”. Pavan and Ambareesh already had theirs and were looking at us with a funny expression when we reached. The anticipation was too much to care for their smirks and we headed to grab 3, 4, 5, 6 or 7 Parathas (??!!) But..but..but.. it was not Parathas. Infact it was just a paratha for each. Now we understood the smirk on their faces as we ate our paratha. It made for a good story and topic for many discussions that day. It was 11.45. A few moments later we all started towards Bedni. You might think what motivated our insatiable souls to step towards Bedni with renewed enthusiasm. Well the scenery is just one part, the other part was the soup that would be waiting for us at Bedni. I told ya.. gluttons! :D

It is an easy walk all surrounded by greenery. We were having some leisurely moments. I guess this is the only place where we have lot of pictures of us on the way. Nowhere else we were so relaxed to stop and take group pictures. We could see the mark of Zorro on a distant mountain ahead of us. That was a small but steep climb again. We reached the temple which marks the end of Ali Bugyal at 12.30 PM. A group photo and then we started up again.
towards the mark of zorro
ALI BUGYAL ENDS WHERE ZORRO BEGINS


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TAKING A LOOK BACK - ALI BUGYAL

After climbing the mark of Zorro, it is an almost plain walk till Bedni. One look at what you left behind would make you want to just sit there and keep watching as the sun and clouds draw different shades on different patches of the Grasslands. You can see the treeline below you. I left the rest of the group and walked at a leisurely pace taking as many photographs possible. I just love green and with so much green around me it is impossible for me to keep my camera shut. But the downside was it started getting cloudy and cold. So I increased my pace and just when I was getting bored of this trail, I could see a small ascent and some people sitting above on the rocks. They showed me the campsite right below the ridge we were standing on. Elated Smitha and I ran for it and the hot soup was more than we could have asked for – divine! It was 1.30 PM and only couple of us had reached by then.

campsite at Bedni
CAMPSITE AT BEDNI


It was 3.00 PM and it started raining heavily. We hadn’t taken our sleeping yet and we missed them dearly while we felt the chill in our bones. Inside our tents we managed with what we had, thermals and a shawl and at 4 the rain showed some respite. And then sun was shining again – as bright as a sunny summer day. This is when Kunal exclaimed that he would like to see a rainbow now. We thought that was asking for too much and we headed towards Bedni Kund for some captures – yes, 4 shutterbugs. Well apparently Trishul, Nanda Ghunti, Kali Dak peaks surrounded us and I didn’t know that because it was all covered up until now. We caught some fleeting glimpses of awesomeness but it never fully cleared up. And then we spotted a rainbow, a huge rainbow right in front of us.

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RAINBOW DREAMS

We sat there until the sun set and then hot pakoras and Chai beckoned us back to the tents. A friendly banter with the rest and that was the end of one of the most beautiful days.

It is 8.15 PM as I sit in the tent and write this line in my scribble pad - “It is freaking cold!”

Fact File :
Distance Covered   – 12 kms
Time Taken            – 7.45 AM -1.30 PM, 5 hours at a leisurely pace.
Altitude Gained      – Didna (8600 ft) – Tol Top(10,000 ft) – Ali Bugyal (11,300 ft) – Bedni Bugyal       (11,800ft)
 Water Sources      – One just after Didna campsite and the next at Tol Pani and none after that till Bedni
Difficulty                – Moderate to Difficult, considering the altitude change.
Any snow capped peaks today? – Yes, Look out for Nanda Ghunti, Trishul, Kali Dak, Chaukhamba, NeelKanth, around the campsite.

Tomorrow, I shall show you some magnificent views of some magnificent peaks. No, these are not fleeting glimpses of awesomeness, but eternal etchings of magnificence. Stay tuned!

P.S – We(the girls) missed our “pink” tent very much!

Saturday, October 31, 2009

Waterfalls - It's all about Waterfalls

There is a definitive charm to the sparkling rivers and gurgling waters. Yes, Yes, I love Waterfalls. Considering I am a water sign, I just love it when I’m around any water body. And Western Ghats (mostly) feed my fascination to endless bounds. There is still a lot to cover but here are some of the waterfalls that I have seen and loved. I will keep adding to the list as I travel further. Click on the images for the links to the travelogues.



- 20ft high falls and spanning over a 500m gorge in numerous falls.
- 180 kms from Bangalore
- Forms on Cauvery River, Tamilnadu
- India’s Niagara Falls


    - 96ft high falls (spanning 200 meters in monsoon)
    - 40 kms from Jagdalpur, Chhattisgarh
    - Forms on River Indrāvati
    - Yet another India’s Niagara Falls

      - 300ft high falls cascading over layered rocks
      - 40kms from Jagdalpur, Chhattisgarh
      - Located in the Kanger Ghati National Park
      - Best visited after monsoons


        - 830 ft high falls
        - 103 kms from Shimoga, Karnataka
        - Forms on Sharavathi River
        - India’s highest plunge waterfall best visited during monsoons.


          - 250 ft high falls in Chikmagalur district, Karnataka
          - Two tiered falls, Chikka(small) Hebbe and Dodda(big) Hebbe
          - 259 kms from Bangalore, 42 kms off NH-206
          - 13kms transport by jeep and then 30 minutes of hike to reach the falls.


            - A small waterfall near a shrine
            - The bigger upstream version can be reached by trekking
            - 34 kms off NH-206
            - Located in Chikmagalur, Karnataka
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